Initial commit: site code, layouts, content (images added separately)

Fixes duplicate placeholder cover image on the 3 newest blog posts,
broken aspect-ratio classes on the albums listing page, and a
non-responsive fixed sidebar on the chat page.

content/blog/_index.md

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+---
+title: "Grow Journal"
+description: "Notes from the field."
+---

content/blog/post-1.md

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+---
+title: "Why I Stopped Using Organic Nutrients in Hydro"
+date: 2024-01-10T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/69844720921__44164E36-77D1-4DBA-BD06-26F8BF86C541.jpeg"
+summary: "Biofilm, clogs, and unstable pH. Why organics belong in soil, not in your reservoir."
+---
+
+I wanted to believe in "organic hydroponics." Clean water plus natural nutrients sounded dreamy. After three straight failures, I had to face the music.
+
+Organic nutrients are liquid compost. In soil, microbes break them down. In a sterile reservoir they just turn to slime—clogged emitters, coated roots, suffocated plants.
+
+Switching back to mineral salts wasn't giving up; it was waking up. Yields doubled and cleaning went from hours to minutes.

content/blog/post-10.md

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+---
+title: "Alright folks, let’s talk hydro! After two decades wrestling with cannabis in sterile environment..."
+date: 2025-12-26T10:50:30Z
+image: "/images/IMG_1534.jpeg"
+summary: "First off – “sterile” matters when we're talking hydroponics with cannabis because root health IS everything and disease spreads fast in water based s..."
+---
+
+First off – “sterile” matters when we're talking hydroponics with cannabis because root health IS everything and disease spreads fast in water based systems without proper controls.. We want to minimize the microbial load so plants focus on *growing*, not fighting stuff off constantly . Think consistent sterilization of reservoirs, tubing & grow media.
+
+Let’s break down some common sterile-friendly options: 
+* **Deep Water Culture (DWC):** The simplest! Roots dangle in oxygenated nutrient solution; good for beginners and scaling up is relatively easy with multiple buckets/reservoirs.. Sterilization? Easy – fully replace the reservoir weekly, or biweekly depending on plant size. Keep that air pump running strong though - dissolved O2 critical here
+* **Recirculating Deep Water Culture (RDWC):** DWC but linked together! One central oxygenated nutrient res feeds multiple smaller containers with individual net pots.. More complex setup and requires a little more monitoring, especially for pH drift across the system. Sterilization is still largely reservoir based – though you’ll want to flush all connecting lines weekly when changing out solution
+* **Drain-to-Waste (DTW):** My personal workhorse! Nutrient flows *through*, not recirculates.. Less risk of disease buildup because old nutrient gets flushed with each watering cycle. You need a bit more nute and water, but the consistency in uptake is worth it for consistent results . Sterilization focuses on initial reservoir prep & ensuring clean tubing/media
+* **Rockwool Slab / Coco Coir Systems:** Technically *hydroponic*, even though they use an inert growing medium.. Excellent control over root zone environment. Requires careful pH and EC management, but are very forgiving – especially coco coirs which can handle minor fluctuations much better than rock wool . Sterilization of the slabs/bricks before planting is key!
+
+**Troubleshooting 101:** Don’t panic when things go sideways (and they will!). Here's what I see most:
+* **Root Rot**: Usually caused by Pythium or Fusarium. Often from low dissolved oxygen, high temperatures and not enough sterilization.. Check your water temp; aim for under 75F/24C , bump up aeration & replace that solution! Consider a hydrogen peroxide addition to the reservoir (3% H₂O₂, ~1 tsp per gallon)
+* **pH Drift:** Common in recirculating systems. Calibrate you pH meter regularly, and check it at multiple points within your system.. Check for algae growth too – light hitting nutrient solutions encourages them & throws off readings! 
+ ***Nutrient Lockout**: Happens when salts build up or a specific element is unavailable to the plant . Flush with plain PH balanced water. If that doesn’t work, reassess you EC/PPM and make sure your ratios are correct for what growth stage they're in
+
+
+Bottom line? Sterile hydroponics takes some attention but yields amazing results! Don’t be afraid experiment & document everything - it pays dividends later down the road when scaling up or optimizing a system.

content/blog/post-11.md

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+---
+title: "Alright, let’s talk roots – specifically how getting oxygen *to* those cannabis roots is the sing..."
+date: 2025-12-26T16:48:36Z
+image: "/images/IMG_8377.jpeg"
+summary: "Everyone focuses so much on lights and nutrient formulas – crucial stuff sure - but if your root zone is suffocating in anaerobic conditions you're le..."
+---
+
+Everyone focuses so much on lights and nutrient formulas – crucial stuff sure - but if your root zone is suffocating in anaerobic conditions you're leaving serious potential untapped.. Cannabis *loves* oxygen, especially when it’s pulling nutrients directly from the water column instead of sifting through soil. 
+
+
+
+**So how do we maximize that vital O2? Here are a few techniques I swear by:**
+
+1.**Consistent Water Temperature is Key**: Aim for between 68-74°F (around ~20 Celsius). Warmer temps hold less dissolved oxygen, colder slows nutrient uptake.. A simple aquarium heater with an inline thermostat will do the trick. Don’t cheap out here; stability matters more than fancy features
+
+2.**Air Stone Power – But Size Matters**:  Everyone uses air stones in DWC! Great start,. The mistake I see a lot is using too *few* or ones that are clogged.. Get enough to create consistent, but not violent turbulence. Think gentle bubbling throughout the entire reservoir - it should look like its lightly simmering
+
+3.**Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) – A Sterile Boost**:  I use H₂0₂, at a low dose of 1-2 tsp per gallon every few days,. It breaks down into water and oxygen, giving those roots an extra boost. Plus helps keeps the system cleaner reducing root rot.. Just don’t overdo it - too much can shock them!
+
+4.**Water Change Frequency**:  A lot depends on your plant size & nutrient uptake but I always aim for a complete reservoir change every 7-10 days, especially during peak bloom,. This replenishes oxygen and prevents salt buildup. Don't just top off – *replace* the water completely.. It’s more work upfront that yields big results
+
+5.**Root Mass Inspection:** When you do your changes pull out some roots! Healthy cannabis root are bright white & fluffy - a sign of healthy O2 uptake . Brown, slimy mush is an indicator something'a amiss
+
+
+
+These aren’t groundbreaking secrets,. but they *are* often overlooked. Sterile hydroponics isn't just about the nutrients; it requires active management to create and maintain that ideal oxygen-rich environment for your cannabis roots.. Nail this part down ,and you will see a significant difference in vigor, growth rate & ultimately – bud density!
+
+
+
+I’ll dive deeper into sterile system sanitation next time. Until then happy growing folks!.

content/blog/post-2.md

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+---
+title: "The Truth About H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide)"
+date: 2024-02-15T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/IMG_9769.jpeg"
+summary: "It's a powerful tool, but it's not a long-term solution. Here is why."
+---
+
+Hydrogen Peroxide is the flamethrower of the hydro world. It kills everything—good and bad—on contact.
+
+Its half-life in a nutrient solution is tiny. Within hours it's just water and oxygen. If you've got a dirty pump or line feeding pathogens, H2O2 will clear it for a moment and the colony will be back by morning.
+
+I use H2O2 for *cleaning equipment between runs*. For daily maintenance, I prefer Hypochlorous Acid.

content/blog/post-3.md

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+---
+title: "My Battle with Pythium (and How I Won)"
+date: 2024-03-01T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/IMG_6475.jpeg"
+summary: "Root rot isn't a death sentence if you catch it early and treat it aggressively."
+---
+
+It started as slight discoloration on the root tips. I ignored it. Two days later the whole reservoir smelled like a swamp. Pythium moves fast.
+
+My mistake was trusting "beneficial bacteria" in a system running too warm (75°F). Pythium loves warm, low-oxygen soup.
+
+The fix? A water chiller. Dropping to 66°F was the turning point. Cold water holds more oxygen, and Pythium hates that.

content/blog/post-4.md

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+---
+title: "VPD Explained for Complete Beginners"
+date: 2024-03-20T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/IMG_9449.jpeg"
+summary: "Temperature and humidity are connected. Learn how to hit the sweet spot."
+---
+
+VPD stands for Vapor Pressure Deficit. Think of it as the air's drying power.
+
+If the air is too dry (high VPD), plants sweat too much and slam their stomata to save water. Growth stops.
+If the air is too humid (low VPD), they barely sweat. No water movement means no calcium uptake.
+
+You want the Goldilocks zone. For early veg, aim around 0.8 kPa. For flower, push 1.2–1.4 kPa.

content/blog/post-5.md

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+---
+title: "Review: The Best pH Pen Under $100"
+date: 2024-04-05T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/IMG_9413.jpeg"
+summary: "Stop buying the yellow $10 pens. They are costing you your harvest."
+---
+
+I've used BlueLab, Hanna, and the cheap yellow generics. The value winner? The Apera PH60.
+
+It has a replaceable probe, decent calibration stability, and it's waterproof. The most important feature of a pH pen is trust. If you can't trust the reading (and keep it calibrated), you're flying blind.

content/blog/post-6.md

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+---
+title: "Why Your Reservoir Smells Bad"
+date: 2024-04-20T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/IMG_2870.jpeg"
+summary: "Healthy roots smell like fresh rain or cut potatoes. Swamp smell means trouble."
+---
+
+If you open your res and it smells like sulfur or rotten eggs, you have anaerobic bacteria. These thrive in low-oxygen water.
+
+The immediate fix? Add more air. Get a bigger air pump and more stones. You can't really have "too much" dissolved oxygen in a home setup. Then figure out why the system got that stale in the first place.

content/blog/post-7.md

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+---
+title: "Rockwool vs. Coco Coir: A Sterile Perspective"
+date: 2024-05-10T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/IMG_9612 2.jpeg"
+summary: "Why I prefer inert media for precise control."
+---
+
+Coco is great, but it's organic. It comes with its own cation exchange capacity (CEC), meaning it holds onto Calcium and Magnesium. That's an extra variable in your math.
+
+Rockwool is basalt rock spun into fiber. It is chemically inert. It holds nothing. If I pour 100ppm of Nitrogen in, 100ppm is available to the plant. For scientific growing, Rockwool wins.
+If you want sterile, rockwool plays nice; coco fights back.

content/blog/post-8.md

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+---
+title: "Automating pH: Is it Worth It?"
+date: 2024-06-01T10:00:00Z
+image: "/images/IMG_9768.jpeg"
+summary: "Dosers are cool, but they can fail. Should you trust a robot with your crop?"
+---
+
+I love automation, but I always tell new growers: **Don't automate what you don't understand.**
+
+If you don't know *why* your pH is drifting up (plants eating nitrates) or down (root rot or ammonia), a doser will just mask the problem until it's too late. Master manual control first. Then get the robot.
+Once you can predict the drift before it happens, then let the robot babysit.

content/blog/post-9.md

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+---
+title: "Dialing EC and pH in Sterile Hydro"
+date: 2025-12-26T09:22:47Z
+image: "/images/IMG_1439.jpeg"
+summary: "How I set EC and pH, what the drifts mean, and how to log it without losing your mind."
+---
+
+Sterile growing means zero buffer. EC and pH are your steering wheel.
+
+**EC (electrical conductivity):** total salts/ppm. I keep veg around 1.6–2.0 EC and push 2.4–3.0 in flower depending on strain and light intensity. Don't chase numbers blind—watch the leaves. Light green with stalled growth? You probably underfed. Dark, clawed tips? Back off.
+
+**pH:** Cannabis likes slightly acidic solution. My sweet spot is 5.8–6.2 in the reservoir. Calibrate your meter often; cheap meters can burn you faster than a bad dab.
+
+**Common screw-up:** adjusting pH without checking EC first. If the soup is too hot or too weak, pH tweaks are lipstick on a pig.
+
+**Practical tips:**
+- Start low and creep up. Easier to add salts than undo burn.
+- Check pH daily. Check EC every couple days or any time the plants look different.
+- Track everything—reservoir swaps, nutrient adds, readings. Your logbook will solve next week's mystery smell.
+
+Happy growing,
+Dr Jones